Buying guide

    Internal door sizes: metric, imperial, and how to tell which your house takes

    Most doors that come back for exchange were the wrong size, not the wrong style. The sizing system your house uses was decided the year it was built — and half the battle is knowing which system you are measuring in.

    The standard sizes, in plain numbers

    Most UK internal doors are 1,981mm tall and 35mm thick — that is the old imperial six foot six, carried over from when doors were sold in feet and inches. Width is where the choice sits, and these are the ones you will actually meet:

    • 610mm (2ft 0in) — cupboards, cloakrooms and the narrowest hall doors
    • 686mm (2ft 3in) — smaller bedrooms and bathrooms, common in terraces
    • 762mm (2ft 6in) — the single most common internal door in England and Wales
    • 838mm (2ft 9in) — larger rooms and anywhere wheelchair access matters
    • 457mm and 533mm (1ft 6in and 1ft 9in) — airing cupboards and slim storage

    Imperial or metric? The year your house was built mostly decides

    Houses built through the twentieth century — the Victorian and Edwardian terraces, the 1930s semis, the post-war estates — take the imperial sizes above. Newer builds increasingly use the metric standard instead: 2,040mm tall, typically 726mm or 826mm wide, and 40mm thick. Metric doors are noticeably taller, and the two systems do not mix — a metric door cannot be cut down to fit an imperial frame without ruining it.

    The quickest check is to measure a door you already have. Roughly 1,981mm tall and it is imperial; roughly 2,040mm and it is metric. If it measures neither, you are probably in an older property where nothing is standard — which brings us to the interesting part.

    Period houses: where the standards stop applying

    A Victorian terrace has had a century and a half to move, and its door openings have moved with it. It is normal for us to measure an opening in an older house and find the width differs by 10mm between the top and the bottom, or that no two doors in the hallway are the same size. The original doors were often made to fit by a joiner on site, so "standard" never applied in the first place.

    This is workable — a door can usually be trimmed to fit — but only within limits. Most veneered doors allow only a few millimetres of trimming per edge before you cut through the lipping and expose the core, and the manufacturer's stated trim allowance is a hard limit, not a suggestion. Solid timber doors are more forgiving. If an opening is badly out of square, the honest answer is sometimes to scribe the door to the opening, and that is a fitting skill rather than a measuring one.

    How to measure an opening properly

    Measure the structural opening, not the old door — an old door may have been trimmed, and it tells you what fitted then, not what fits now.

    • Measure the width at the top, middle and bottom of the frame — in an older house these will differ
    • Measure the height on both the left and right sides
    • Note the frame depth: a standard 35mm door needs less than a 44mm fire door
    • Check what the floor is doing — a new carpet or tiled floor changes the clearance the door needs underneath
    • If the numbers disagree with each other by more than a few millimetres, stop and get it measured professionally before ordering

    The honest bit

    We measure every opening ourselves before we order anything — it is included in the job, and it is why a door we fit does not come back. If you are buying doors to fit yourself, the numbers above will get you to the right size in a standard house. If your house is pre-war, or the measurements you are getting do not match anything on this page, that is precisely the situation where a measuring visit costs nothing and a wrongly ordered door costs the price of the door.

    Still unsure?

    Ask us — measuring and
    advice cost nothing

    Tell us about your project and we'll give you a straight answer, whether or not it ends in a quote.

    Get in Touch